Love All Around

From Anne's SLR Film

People in Buenos Aires have a fantastic way of replying whenever you thank them for something, be it at a store, at a restaurant, or on the street. "No, de nada," is the response, or some close variation thereof. While it may not look like much in writing, the "no" is always emphasised and drawn out in a way that makes it sound like a close friend saying "don't be silly, it was my pleasure".

The fact that this reaction to "gracias" follows as naturally as a bulb lighting up when you flick the switch is both comical and endearing. The other day as I was riding around on the metro, trying to take some pictures¹ of the old wooden carriages on the A line in rush hour, I was half tempted to blurt out a random "gracias" just to feel the warmth of dozens of "no, de nada chico"s shower down on me from all sides. I didn't, as I feared the inevitable awkward silence that would follow.

I'm slowly getting the impression that Argentina is a country that has embraced the philosophy described by The Beatles in "All You Need Is Love", and it's not only for the above reason. It's not uncommon to see couples heavily making out on park benches, in doorways, or just in the middle of the sidewalk. The love here also extends to inanimate objects like mate and the thermoses bearing hot water with which to make it. Whether relaxing in parks or strolling through a Sunday antique market, it often seemed like Anne and I were the only ones without the companionship of a gourd and thermos.

There is a very precise technique to making mate to which I am not privy. I can only assume that as young schoolchildren, Argentinians spend years in science class learning the exact temperature to heat the water to, how to pack the mate leaves in the gourd, and where to place the filter straw you drink the tea through. In all fairness, maybe my slightly bitter sarcasm comes from feeling like the kid left out of all the games of duck-duck-goose wherever I go. Though I should say that now I've started helping at a food bank, I've been initiated in the social ritual of mate drinking, and I can see the attraction.

I have heard that people in Uruguay actually exceed Argentinians in their mate obsession. Apparently some have perfected the technique of holding an open thermos in the crook of their armpit and a cup in the hand of the same arm, then shifting their shoulder slightly to pour hot water into the cup. While riding a bike. This I have decided I have to see, so I'm hoping to take a weekend culture safari there to spot it in the wild.

1. Unfortunately, all the pictures are far too dark. I will need to get better scans somewhere, or perhaps find some high-speed film and spend another hour in hot stuffy underground carriages to get better ones.↩