Heading South

Before I got on the train to Guiyang, I was dreading the prospect of 26 hours on a hard straight-back seat. With no other classes of travel available, I had no choice but to book it to get where I want to go in south China. I climbed on at the platform in Xian, the only foreigner in a carriage full of Chinese. Even if I hadn't had a hiking pack on my back so full it towered over my head, all eyes would have been on me. But the situation being what it was, there was no getting around my role at center stage. I stowed my pack and sat down with the bowls of instant noodles and fruit that I had packed for the trip, doing my best to ignore the attention. Next time I think I might give a wave and shake a few hands as I walk down the aisle, like a politician at a fundraiser.

It's coming up to nighttime and soon I'll be wishing for the sleeper I took on my last train journey from Beijing to Xian. It was extremely comfortable and the announcement as we left the station informed me the train would "run like flowing water." I didn't hear that over the PA system this time.

But for now I'm happy where I am. The people are friendly, and since all trash goes out the window it's pretty clean. People do hack up phlegm and spit it on the floor, but I passed on the suggestion from some other travelers to take sleeping pills so I don't plan on stretching out there. The only complaint I have is that unlike trains in India, you can't sit in an open doorway and watch the world pass by.